How to Dress for Winter Painting en Plein Air
Dress For Success: Painting in the cold doesn’t have to be a bad thing. Dressing in layers is your guide to being comfortable in the outdoors, and staying dry should be your goal (as moisture can be dangerous in extreme temps). Other than that you can actually dress so that you are as cozy as you would be sitting in the living room. Here are a few tips that I have put together based on personal experience and current research, as well as input from other painter friends. When dressing for winter there are three layers to consider: 1. The first layer is called a Base Layer. The warmest option here is Merino Wool because of its inherent wicking properties and with good, natural insulating value (as well as its odor resistance- just an added bonus!); This is not your grandfathers wool. Merino wool is closer to cashmere than to the worsted wool that is itchy and scratchy. It is recommended that you buy a wool blend that has about 80% merino wool and 20% acrylic as this will help it to maintain its shape. Wool also continues to “feel” warm up to being 20% wet, which is very important! I recommend the Minus 33 product from Aramark. Among the natural fabrics there is also silk, which like wool, has excellent wicking properties and fair insulation value, and is very comfortable. The drawback to wool and silk is that they tend to be slightly on the expensive side. If you are very sensitive to wool products you may consider this as an excellent option, as it is VERY comfortable. I wear it under my wool layer on very cold days (see WinterSilks). A synthetic base layer can be an inexpensive option if price is a consideration. Contrary to some advertisements, synthetics do not wick moisture unless they are treated. Capilene for example, is a synthetic long underwear that is treated with a chemical to make it wick moisture, however this does wear away after several repeated washings. Capilene is warm, but if you are walking to a specific location and building up a sweat, it may not be the best option. PolyPro, is like capilene, but not treated to wick moisture. (Campmor or Army Surplus carry these items) When considering a base layer, the industry terms are: Lightweight, Midweight, and Expedition Weight. Expedition weight is the warmest. One caution I would like to make here, is to avoid using Cotton in ANY of your winter gear. Get rid of it for your winter clothing. It does not keep you warm when it gets wet, but actually causes your body temperature to drop, and has little insulating value. 2. The second layer is called a Mid Layer. 3. The third layer, or outside layer is known as the “Shell”. A rain jacket or wind-breaker with pit-zips or "vents" will also work. That said, any jacket you decide upon should be able to "vent" to avoid overheating and to keep dry. *A high-quality snowmobile suit is also a good option for cold weather, however it does limit the ability to layer-down to regulate your body temp. Specific Areas: My objective here is to have any exposed skin covered at all times if need be. If the weather is mild of course, you can allow for the appropriate layers to be discarded. Footwear: Look for a silk liner to wear under your socks to wick moisture away from the foot. This is part of your base layer. Over the liner I would recommend a sock that is approximately 80/20 merino wool. Also, pick a boot that is loose fitting, and has a minimum of 800 Grams of Thinsulate. Do not dress too tight here, as that would restrict circulation, making your foot cooler. rather, try wearing a boot that is a half-size bigger. If you are always getting cold feat you might further consider a "slip-on boot cover" to go over your boots, which may add about 10 degrees of warmth. You might also add a disposable heat pack inside of this. Battery powered socks are another way keep warm, but I have never tried them myself. A good boot like sorels Sorels are temperature rated at -150 to -180 below zero. Hands: I use a silk glove liner with a wool glover liner over that, and finally I use a pair of carpenter’s winter gloves for warmth and ultimate dexterity. These liners are very thin so they allow dexterity while you are painting. Over these you may consider the wool fingerless gloves. If you are still really cold, you can pull on a large wool sock over the whole works and poke a hole in it to put the paint brushes. I imagine you could also poke a hole in a pair of mittens. The same principles apply: base, mid, and shell. Also, protect your wrists, if you get cold here your whole body will feel cold. You can get a jacket that fits long here and gloves that overlap the jacket and in this way create a seamless shell. Headwear: The myth that most of our heat escapes through the head is not completely unfounded, as in fact, heat will escape anywhere that the body is exposed to the elements. With this in mind, consider wearing a wool or silk hat or balaclava directly next to your head and neck. Over that you could put a hat with a large visor, and on top of that a fluffy watch hat or stocking cap; this will add the insulation. If your shell jacket has a hood this will make a great shell to protect your head from the wind. Neck warmers are also a staple for head gear, they are also known as a muffler, and fit like a sock over your head and around your neck and lower face. Eyewear: Many artists refuse to wear sunglasses because it changes how they are see. However, many optometrists warn against damage to the retina from the extreme brightness of sunlight on snow- otherwise known as snow blindness. I wear sunglasses that have a photo-grey lense on them, and I also have a pair of ski goggles that are mirrored with a photo-grey lense. This keeps the colors the same, but only slightly darkens them. To compensate this, I simply lift off my glasses now and then to correct values and check colors. Be safe, protect your eyes- you only one pair! Miscellaneous: A thermos of soup or hot beverage can help keep you warm and comfortable. Sitting in your vehicle for a few minutes while drinking something warm can help you feeling warm and fresh, and you will come back to your painting with renewed energy. Don't forget to stop once in a while to think about the "What and Why" of your scene and painting. If you are cold, walk around or move your limbs briskly to generate some body heat! I usually stamp the snow around me down flat when I am trying to warm up, as this helps me from tightening up with cold, and creates a flat ground to work on and move around. *thank you to IPAP and Ken DeWaardfor some of the collective contributions.
This layer is directly next to the skin, and its function is to “wick away” moisture to keep you dry. If you are dry, you will stay warmer longer- plain and simple. The other function of a base layer is to provide some insulation as well. Essentially this layer is referred to as a “Thermal Layer” or simply “Long Underwear”. There are several choices of fabrics, and your choice should depend upon how cold it is outside and your personal level of cold comfort.
The function of a mid layer is to insulate. It provides lots of space to keep in the warmth yet allows moisture from your body to pass through and out. Down jackets are great insulators, as they are bulky and trap (and keep) warm air inside your clothes and around your body. Another, more modern, insulating layer is the synthetic fleece jackets that are so common now; They provide “bulk” without being bulky. There are many "System Jackets” that have the zip-in liner, often a "fleece" which is the mid layer (warmth) and the shell on the outside.
As it sounds, this layer keeps the wind out, while allowing your body to breathe. Its function is also to prevent moisture such as rain from entering while allowing sweat moisture (which is smaller in size than a water droplet) to pass through and out. Something similar to a rain jacket or windbreaker is recommended , but it must allow sweat to escape. A newer product called Gore-Tex is the most effective product available for this requirement, as it is really the perfect mix of all these.
